Beauty

Silab launches Metallomia, a detoxifying active for menopausal skin

Solveig AndresenNovember 12, 20265 min read0 views

At a glance

  • Silab wants to target deficient ferritinophagy to restore iron availability and curb metallo-aging in mature skin
  • Silab has introduced Metallomia, an active ingredient that relaunches ferritinophagy in menopausal skin to restore bioavailable iron and limit oxidative stress under UV exposure. The company reports barrier, tone and pigmentation improvements in volunteer testing, with polyuronides extracted from marshmallow root through a traced French supply chain.
A stylized skin cross-section with iron-rich particles moving along channels toward glowing cells, set beside a marshmallow root and a pool of pale violet aqueous serum, lit in cool violet and amber tones.

Silab, the French active-ingredient manufacturer, has introduced Metallomia, a detoxifying ingredient developed specifically for menopausal skin. According to the company, the launch targets a deficiency in ferritinophagy — the process that governs the controlled release of iron to meet cellular needs — identified in mature skin through a new modelling study.

When ferritinophagy is impaired, cells lack bioavailable iron, a condition Silab links to premature skin ageing and calls metallo-aging. UV radiation aggravates the phenomenon: it promotes the degradation of iron/ferritin complexes, releasing iron in a massive and uncontrolled way and triggering significant oxidative stress.

Mechanism and reported results

Metallomia is designed to act on both sides of that process. By relaunching ferritinophagy in menopausal skin, it is said to facilitate the supply of iron and to restart the main epidermal functions. By reducing iron/ferritin complexes, it also limits oxidative stress when skin is exposed to UV.

Silab reports that this targeted mechanism significantly reduces metallo-aging. In its testing, the skin of Caucasian volunteers was described as revitalised from 14 days, with a reinforced barrier and a more unified, radiant complexion. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were significantly reduced after 28 days. Caucasian volunteers who applied the ingredient before UV exposure showed prevention of lipid peroxidation, and the appearance of redness was limited within hours of exposure. These findings are the manufacturer's own and have not been independently verified.

Sourcing from marshmallow root

For the development, Silab examined the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages, and set up a traced supply chain with French partners. The supply was validated against the criteria of the European Pharmacopoeia and authenticated by DNA barcoding. To make use of the root's mucilage content, the company developed a specific enzyme engineering process to extract polyuronides.

Formulation and compliance

  • Patented active ingredient recommended at a dose of 0.5% to 2% in all care products intended for menopausal skin.
  • Supplied as an aqueous solution and described as easy to formulate.
  • Natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128.
  • Complies with biodiversity regulations and with international cosmetics regulations covering Europe, the USA, China and Japan.

Silab positions the ingredient for the full range of menopausal skin care, with the aqueous format intended to simplify formulation work for brands.

Reported by Solveig Andresen, Cosmetic Safety and Packaging Editor.